The pros and cons of tubeless tyres
Tubeless is the future but it's still not a perfect system. In this article, we address all your tubeless questions.
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Converting your tyres to tubeless is one of the first upgrades you should make to your bike – that and perhaps also securing some carbon wheels, but that's a story for another day. Not only will tubeless tyres potentially drop the rotational mass of your wheels, but they will also improve puncture resistance and ride quality. These days, the modern tyre has made the tubeless conversion much easier but it's still without its hiccups. Let's dive in.
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What are the benefits of going tubeless?
The benefits of tubeless tyres are undeniable. The first and most noticeable improvement is a reduction in total system weight, the result of which will improve handling and acceleration.
Weldtite_Tubeless_Sealant_2.jpg, by Matthew Page
Then, because there's no inner tube to get caught between your tyre and wheel rim, pinch flats are reduced. To further improve protection and, potentially, ride quality, tubeless tyres allow for the installation of tyre inserts.
While there will be a significant improvement in puncture protection, cuts do happen, and sometimes this is not repairable trailside. Inside a tubeless tyre, there should be a sealant which will coagulate as it reacts with the air. Sometimes this process is so fast that you'll never know it's happened. Sealant is also effective in the rare event that you get multiple punctures at once.
However, that added protection allows for lower tyre pressures without worry of ending your ride via puncture. Lower tyre pressure lets the tyre conform over terrain more freely, thus it'll provide more grip.
What are the downsides to going tubeless?
Although there are many benefits of tubeless tyres, it's not a perfect system. The setup of a tubeless tyre involves more. If your rim isn't already sealed with tubeless rim tape, or the rim isn't UST, you'll need to tape your rim to achieve a proper seal and install a tubeless-specific valve. There's then the action of adding sealant and seating the beads. The latter can be quite a task, depending on the chosen rim and tyre combination, but what we've found is coating the rim bed with sealant beforehand will help the beads pop into place quickly and easily without much hassle.
Finish_Line_Fiberlink_Tubeless_Sealant_Fibers.jpg, by Matt Page
Tubeless tyres also require regular maintenance. Eventually, tubeless sealant will dry out and need topping up to ensure it can do its job and fill any holes.
Rim tape can also be damaged if you regularly swap tyres with tyre levers. A hole in the rim tape destroys the air seal and needs to be replaced for optimal performance.
Tubeless setups can also be sensitive to rim damage. A crack in a carbon rim or dented alloy rim could stop a tyre from seating properly, or spell the end of the seal that a tubeless system relies on.
Is tubeless lighter than tubed?
Typically, yes. Having weighed a 29 x 2.4in butyl innertube from Kenda, which came in at 251g, a single standard-type tubeless-specific valve, a 29-inch wheel's worth of rim tape and 140mm of Stan's Race Day sealant, the tubeless setup weighs 144g.
Of course, that can change depending on how much sealant you choose to use, but Muc-Off's recommendation is 140g for downhill use.
Pirelli Scorpion Smartube front, by Aaron Borrill
A tubed setup can become lighter if you opt for TPU tubes from brands such as Tubolito, Pirelli and WTB. A 29-inch Pirelli SmarTUBE weighs 97g (on my scale) and although more resilient than a butyl tube, running one of these still runs an increased risk of pinch flatting and punctures.
How much does it cost to go tubeless?
If you're happy to perform the conversion yourself, expect to spend around £50 on a tubeless conversion kit. That should supply everything you need, including valves, sealant and rim tape.
However, many new bikes come with their rims pre-taped and with tubeless-compatible valves in the box.
What different types of tubeless systems are there?
There are two main systems, UST and Tubeless Ready. The former relates to both rims and tyres and is a technology pioneered by Mavic, Michelin and Hutchinson in 1999. UST is a system that uses a groove in the wheel to encourage the bead to clip into the rim hooks. UST rims don't require taping as the rim itself is sealed, and spokes are accessed externally. UST tyres feature an extra layer of rubber that provides an airtight seal, so technically, UST setups don't require sealant to become airtight, but generally, are heavier than Tubeless Ready equivalents.
Tubeless-ready setups are much more common, with 'tubeless-ready' referring to products that can work with tubeless tyres. Tyre brands often use their own names to refer to tubeless-ready components, such as Specialized's 2Bliss and Schwalbe's Tubeless Easy.
Tubeless-ready tyres and rims need rim tape and sealant to create a seal.
What size hole can tubeless sealant seal?
Tubeless sealants can seal punctures up to around 6.5mm, but there are many variables to consider. Effective sealing often depends on where the puncture is located. Sidewall punctures or tears close to the bead can be tough to seal owing to their location and the sealant's inability to reach the sidewall. Plus, the larger the puncture, the less likely it'll seal, which will likely lead to the use of a plug.
2022 peatys holeshot puncture plug insert.jpg, by Liam Mercer
When punctures get too big or they're simply just not sealing, that's when a tubeless repair kit comes in handy. Inserting a plug into a puncture creates its own seal, which is bolstered by tubeless sealant.
How often should I change or replace the sealant?
This depends on the manufacturer and type of sealant you've chosen. Stan's NoTubes says its sealant will stay a liquid for up to seven months. This will depend on your environment and climate. If you're living and riding in a warmer area, sealant will dry quicker than if you live in the wet and cold.
Stan's Race Day sealant uses a different formula and is designed to provide improved puncture sealing performance by using a higher percentage of sealing crystals. But this particular sealant can dry in as little as two weeks.
A good rule of thumb is to check your sealant every three months, unless stated otherwise by the manufacturer. If you notice it's become dry, top it up to ensure optimal performance.
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